le mieux c'est des plateaux spécifiques pour manche en quartier ou pleine dosse (type fender) et des autres pour les tables electriques corps etc .... le debit à moins d'importance ce que l'ont recherche c'est du joli dessin
C'est ce que j'avais en tête lors de l'achat : platane (acoustiques) et érable (manches) sur quartier (et encore pour l'érable c'était négociable parceque ma pseudo fender a un manche sur dosse) et le reste (frêne) sur dosse (pour éviter justement l'effet pyjama, puis parceque c’est très joli le frêne sur dosse)! Mais dans son élan, après le platane, elle m'a sorti de l'érable sur quartier et pour le frêne en épaisseur 54 elle n'en avait plus sur dosse!
Ah c'est malin maintenant je regrette! Pas grave, dans 20 ans quand j'aurais épuisé mon stock je prendrais du frêne sur dosse! (ou beaucoup plus tôt si j’enchaine la fabrication d'environ 10 guitares en frêne ^^).
Pour l'érable échauffé. J'ai trouvé ceci qui va dans le sens de ce que m'a dis la vendeuse de bois:
I'm in Southwestern Ontario, Canada and this summer (09) has been less than ideal for the conditions required for spalted maple and less than typical for our summer temps. It was a very wet summer and well below average daily temps all year. We usually get mid 30's with high humidity levels but this year we've had three days in the 30's and most days were mid to low 20's, Celsius of course.
I took a piece of 8/4 silver maple, 20"x12", and on June 10 put the maple in my backyard under some very large pines. I laid a bed of wood chips from my dust collector system, watered them lightly from a watering can, laid the maple down and covered with the chips, again sprinkling them with water. The chips are black cherry, walnut and white oak. I never added another drop of water to heap all summer. I pulled them piece of maple out this week, on Sept 10 and let it air dry for five days as it was soaking wet. I brought it in and put it through the jointer and planer to check on the results.
I was quite pleased with what I found actually. There were no definitive black pencil line marks that were present on the edges but the entire piece was well colored with purples, yellows and greens. I think the piece was well on its way to becoming spalted but with the temps dipping to single digits at night and about 20 degrees Celsius during the day I figured the process was going to slow considerably.
Le top serait de récupérer de la sciure ou des copeaux de bois déjà échauffé!
Je suis à 2 doigts de faire une demande dans la partie troc/achat/vente pour voir si quelqu'un qui a travaillé un bois de cette sorte récemment aurait cela en stock!
Edit: d'autre infos (toujours en anglais)
The overriding factor to help you spalt wood is to make your friend, fungus, happy. Remember, fungus, specific fungi, cause the decay and coloration that we call spalt. Encourage the growth of that fungus and you'll be more apt to get spalting. Actually, the hardest part of spalting wood is not getting it to start in most cases but it's getting it to stop before the wood is a bunch of mush.
So, what does fungus want? Pretty much what we all want ... a nice place to live and grow; an environment not too cold or hot, too wet or dry; enough friends so that we can tear the place down with the party and then move on. Oh, wait, I've gotten off track ... back to the fungus. Here are the best growing conditions for the fungus we're trying to help grow.
White Rot: The ideal conditions for this fungi include temperatures from 70 to 90 F; moisture content around 30%; lots of oxygen; plenty of good wood to live in and chemicals IN that wood to eat.
Blue Stain: This fungi type needs temperatures over 60 and under 150 F to thrive; moisture content between 20 - 30%; a good oxygen supply; nutrient rich food supply; access to bugs and other critters to bring the Blue Stain fungi in.
The main factor for the formation of any fungi is moisture. Keep it moist, but not waterlogged, and there will be fungal infection. The key is to get the right kind of fungus to grow. Some areas simply won't support spalting. Fungal spores are found almost everywhere but it's the specific type of fungus for spalting that we're concerned with and there must be a threshold of fungus present to kickstart the spalting process. If one area doesn't seem to produce spalting, move the wood to another area and try again. Some areas are better than others as well. The best I've found, without building a special structure, is in a valley where water frequently runs in heavy rains but yet is covered with lots of organic matter (leaves, manure, bark, etc.). Old horse corals are great too although I suspect about any animal coral will work! Keep the logs with the bark still on and in contact with the ground. Keep the logs with the ends in contact with the ground. The tree's natural vascular system will transport the fungus up and throughout the entire log section up to several dozens of feet high. It can do this quite rapidly too so that there's little difference between the amount of decay between the bottom (next to the soil) and the top of the log. I regularly (several hundred logs a year) do this on logs up to 16' in length! Don't bother with storing logs with the bark next to the ground. You'll just end up destroying the protective bark on those sides and letting the log dry out too quickly through the ends. It's tough to get enough moisture into the log without introducing Brown Rot (see the beginning of the article) and destroying it all. You can seal the top of the log to help keep moisture loss to a minimum if you want. Keep air movement to a minimum as this decreases moisture content. The fungus isn't going to come from the air. It'll come from the ground matter and the bugs/animals/birds but the specific fungus has to be there in the first place in order to cause the spalting process.
et ici aussi
http://spaltwood.onlinenichestores.com/ ... spalt_wood
on dit ça mais 3 mois après on recommence :mrgreen:
